![]() 05/24/2016 at 06:58 • Filed to: Land Rover | ![]() | ![]() |
And shiny
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:18 |
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Shiny chassis is shiny :)
Did you get an existing chassis cleaned and galved, or buy a new galved one outright?
If it was the former, how much did the process cost all-in and who did you use? It's an option for my Spit (although an outside one).
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:29 |
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It’s generally easier to buy a new chassis. My brothers SIIA one was around £1200.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:35 |
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That’s not so much of an option with Spitfires. I don’t think anyone makes new chassis, although you can pick up relatively alright ones for not much money at all. The issue comes with ensuring longevity...
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:39 |
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What’s weird is you can get a brand new Europa chassis for not terribly much.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:51 |
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Interesting. I think it's a supply and demand thing. Why would anyone make a Spitfire chassis when you can still pick up serviceable ones in need of a repaint for £150?
![]() 05/24/2016 at 07:59 |
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OMG IT’S SO SHINY!!! Swapping the Series chassis huh?
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:05 |
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1st step of restoration. I've been toying with it for almost 2 years now and the chassis just needs to go. I think it's worth the investment, I'm not selling it so I want it to last!
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:10 |
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There are companies making new reinforced chassis for Spitties, but they’re stupid expensive. Better off just reinforcing an eisting one.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:13 |
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Are there? I can't seem to find one. Not that I'd ever use it as good used chassis are so cheap, but it'd be interesting to see what they've done to reinforce it.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:16 |
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Awesome, you should also look into galvanising the bulkhead and door hinges, you’ll never have to worry about rust ever again.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:18 |
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Much Zinc.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:24 |
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The bulkhead is in fairly good nick, but apparently galvanising can lead to warping, so while it’s good I’ll just maintain it good :) As for the hinges I will just replace them with new ones and get some ss bolts. They're absolutely fine now, but I don't want any rust bleed later, which IMHO come from the bolts more than the bulkhead.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:34 |
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New chassis I’m afraid. What with the extra bits and bobs needed for the MOD vehicles and a couple of ‘simplifying’ additions like a bolt up gearbox crossmember, that lump of shiny steel and zinc up there is about £2.5k all in...
![]() 05/24/2016 at 08:49 |
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It does warp a little but nothing terrible, once everything is reassembled it will move back into place. You just have to be a little forceful when putting everything back on. My dad did it on his 109 and that was around 28 years ago.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 09:27 |
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Ouch :S I was balking at £1700 for electrophoretic coating on mine.
TBH, neither of which pose a viable solution for my Spitfire now that I’ve decided on welding the body to the chassis. I can either get the whole lot done (likely for a much increased price) or do the old paint and waxoyl treatment.
If I galved my chassis I'd need to grind it off in the sections I'm welding, and end up burning it off the inside as I go. I'd have to waxoyl it anyway so it doesn't make much sense...
![]() 05/24/2016 at 09:36 |
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What I thought was a new chassis was just a reconditioned and strengthened one, so not all new like I thought. About 3x the price of an all new Europa one :/
![]() 05/24/2016 at 09:53 |
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![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:02 |
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Columbo was my hero growing up.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:02 |
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Urgh waxoyl. Please don’t remind me any further!
For that cash monies I got a built chassis (it’s not a LR one) from Richards Chassis’, jigged welded lasered galved and re-drilled/tapped, and they’re generally regarded as the best. I sort of went all out so that I get it right and it lasts for years to come.
Would it cost less to get the chassis/frame/monocoque(!) cleaned up and etch primered then painted? Or is that a stupid idea?
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:06 |
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Rightly so. Apart from this bit.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:16 |
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Whatever, Columbo was Jalop as fuck.
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:17 |
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Good idea TBH. You don’t want to be stripping it back to the chassis in a decade’s time because you need a little bit changed...
Yeah that's the plan. I'm painting the insides of the box sections with weld-through primer to provide some fire-resistant rust-protection in addition to waxoyl. Then every bit that I can reach will be coated in 2-pack etch primer and proper paint, probably with some fancy chassis paint on the underside :)
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:19 |
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Correct
![]() 05/24/2016 at 10:21 |
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Spot on